A Foreign Circus Christmas

This year comes to a close and for many of us, the inevitability of change is the only thing that keeps our eyes on the prize whether that be freedom or some other distant hopeful. Finally the coined team name of "foreign circus" has officially been doted upon us adventure seekers slash English teachers living here in South Korea. After a cold snap that left us longing for nopales and daily avocados had passed, we were able to sneak in a daring mountain excursion. High above the friendly metropolis of Seoul, Suraksan mountain spared our souls and let us frolic upon its giant granite belly for the evening. My Mad-rock soles danced delicately on the 90 foot white washed run-out slab and furious crack fingering followed suit as we chased the shadow of the setting sun. Finally some climbing pictures worth sharing.

Christmas was spent in the company of some sweet folk and food was graciously shared. Although the recipe chosen, "Cashew Bake" called for the oven we just didn't have, our pan fried mock imitation was delicious just the same.

For the Roast:1 cup margarine2 large onions, finely chopped 3 cups unroasted cashews 1 1/2 cups white bread, crusts removed 3 large cloves of garlic 1 cup water or vegetable stock salt and pepper nutmeg 2 Tbsp. lemon juice For the Stuffing: 3 cups bread crumbs 1 cup margarine 2 small onions, grated 1/2 Tsp. each thyme and majoram 3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

• Preheat oven to 400°F and line a greased 1-lb. loaf pan with a long strip of greased nonstick paper. • Melt margarine in a medium-sized saucepan, add the onion and sauté until tender. Remove from heat.• Grind the cashews in a food processor with the bread and garlic and add to the onion, together with the water or stock, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and lemon juice, to taste.Mix all stuffing ingredients together.• Put half the cashew mixture into the prepared pan, top with the stuffing, then spoon the rest of the nut mixture on top. Dot with margarine.• Stand the pan in another pan to catch drippings and bake for about 30 minutes or until firm and lightly browned (cover the roast with foil if it gets too brown before then).• Cool for a minute or two, then slip a knife around the sides, turn roast out, and strip off the paper. Makes 8 Servings

If you try this recipe with an oven, let me know how it goes...

Epic. Oh, I love that word!

Climbing this weekend was an epic adventure! Below that good old 0 centigrade line that regulates our freezers and our acute human temperature flexors, we were shocked into survival mode. Frozen puddles and light flurries didn't stop us from pursuing one last pull down on the cusp of the rock/ice climbing season. It is longish hike through Seoraksan park, albeit on primarily flat ground, to the little restaurant that serves as a climbers hostal throughout the year.

The rhythmic gong of a Buddhists' prayer echoed in the valley that surrounded us. It hypnotically called us near. High in a cave in one of the mountains only reached by a series of boulder sized stepping stones and metal staircases could we reach the mysterious hole. The trek was constant and just when our lungs were about to burst from the pulsing aerobic uphill, we reached the source of the chanting. A lone woman sat perched on her stoop over looking the sharp teethed rockies. At peace, she welcomed us with a modest head bow when she was finished. The air was faintly humid from our close proximity to the Sea of Japan (or as any and all Koreans will defend, "The East Sea of Korea". For Alec's sake, I will mention that apparently, Japan doesn't have any seas). As we made our way down, the sun was settling in a orange haze draped over the raucous peaks like a creamsicle in the summer.

Unfortunately when we arrived at the hostal, the kind yet unwavering owners mentioned how they were closed for the season and were by no means going to allow us to sleep there. (closed for the season means closed for one month. The only month when we decide to go... nice research). Oh what would any other hardcore dirtbag do... We weren't about to hike back again with our heavy bags so with no other choice, we decided to sleep outside. We found a nook in between some boulders with no wind. Because it got dark so early, we went to bed at around 7 and I froze until hypothermia shock treatment was necessarily employed.

The next morning after a soft suffered eyelid rest we needed to be stealthy and find ourselves a clandestine rock face to practice our obsession. Considering that the forests look very different in the summer with green leaves and well defined destinations, the fall gave us a run around blinding us and disguising the path ahead with its leaves coating the forest floor. Who doesn't enjoy a little "we are almost lost" hikey-poo jumping river boulders and circumnavigating the approach to the crag! Finally, just as Alec and I we were about to give up and bust open the wine, we heard Wes give a little whistle in the distance. As we met, he had his harness on and was ready to whip! Despite the late start, we each got in two routes (for the whole weekend!) and only Wes had to suffer a mild case of the screaming barfies. It is sad to admit that the outdoor rock climbing season is on hold until next year. Now, we just have to wait for the ice - bring on the mix!

Another mighty Seoul extravaganza!

As winter invades the evening sky swirling with soft white flakes, the first of the season, my tongue is the only one unabashedly protruding out of my mouth in childlike awe of a nostalgic phenomenon I used to take for granted.

With Hangul heartbeats pumping fiercely through surges of adrenaline that recognize good company, my entourage and I board the underground rip-around. We, the foreign circus, perform tricks of stealth and strength in the labyrinth of Seoul’s subway system. A quaint display of Western gregariousness, our near blistered hands hold on for the last chance pull-up party, makgeolli debauchery. Our Korean audience members steal corner of the eye glances.

Some sit on the heated metal seats, hands folded in obedience. Some smile and cheer on our ego busting one-handed lock-off showdown.

In the largest indoor Ice climbing wall in the world according to Mr. Guinness himself, I swing for my life. Pumped out and barely able to hold on to the leash-less ice axes that assist me up sheer frozen vertical ice slicks, I pray I won’t drop them on the kind belayers below! This giant-sized freezer reminds me of home. After spending almost 3 years in Mexico, I have forgotten the all- encompassing feeling of the snowsuit necessary, nose numbing cold as the moisture from my breath freezes and thaws on my jacket after each inhale and exhale.

I have been an Ice climber in a past life, but am only now just realizing it in this one. A taste of an often feared extreme winter sport has left me thirsty for more in near dehydration. Sorry mom.

Deserving a little downtime, Lila, Daphne and I share stories and coffee (and a bottle of wine for breakfast) on Sunday morning to appreciate that we can. They listen and give their blunt and honest perspective. They have travelled to the ends of the earth with me and make me almost pee my pants with laughter (or have made me...). I am so lucky to have these girls in my life!